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Living the Grand life

01 May 2002| Globe & Mail pg.: T.2.|by Steve Galea.

Just an hour and a half's drive from Toronto lies the Grand River, one of Ontario's best and most scenic trout waters for fly-fishing

Picture a loop of glistening yellow line unfurling silently over a pristine river. Rainbows form in its spray and, as it lands in loose curves on the water, it becomes part of the flow. Overhead, swallows cut the air in sleek circles, taking delicate slate-grey mayflies on their wings. On the bank, brilliant marsh marigolds, fiddleheads and teasels are distracting in their humble beauty. Cedars emit a fragrant aroma.

Beyond, bone-white, limestone cliffs rise straight up, defining the gorge that lies between them. The water is gin-clear, gleaming and somehow musical, soothing and tying the whole scene together. It is the focus, the reason why you are here, and it is perfect.

Suddenly, a butter-coloured brown trout rises to take your fly, a mayfly imitation devised of feathers and fur that floats like a tiny sailboat on the surface. You raise your rod and, just like that, you are connected to it all, you are fly-fishing.

It's no secret that the quiet sport is in vogue. Maybe it's a delayed reaction to Brad Pitt's performance as a Montana boy passionate for fly-fishing in A River Runs Through It , but more likely the activity is capturing imaginations because of its serene setting and the fact that it is a dignified way to have fun.

I spent three days proving this early last May, in the vicinity of Elora and Fergus, Ont. We were chasing brown trout on one of Ontario's best and most scenic trout waters, the Grand River. Under the tutelage of Steve May, a guide from the Grand River Troutfitters fly-fishing shop, a friend and I learned the finer points of this elegant sport. More remarkable is the fact that this world-class fishery lies within an hour and a half's drive of Toronto.

Even among seasoned anglers, fly-fishing has a reputation for complexity. The sport is steeped in tradition and, at advanced levels, an almost arcane knowledge of river and aquatic biology.

Aside from guiding experienced anglers, however, the folks at Grand River Troutfitters cater to prospective fly-fishers and have introduced hundreds of people to the sport. Their introductory course teaches basic terminology, two simple fly-tying knots to get you started, and an overview of fish and stream life and fly-fishing equipment. After the initial instruction, which includes fly-casting on a manicured lawn, the rest of the day is spent on the water teaching new anglers how to present a fly to wild trout.

"We are able to get 80 to 90 per cent of our students into brown trout on that first day out," May says. "That's when it all comes together."

New students range from the very young to older fishermen curious to learn the nuances of fly-fishing. Trout season on the Grand River begins at the end of April and continues to the end of September.

"One of the most predictable things is that wives tend to out-fish their husbands on these first trips," May says. "Generally, women tend to listen and take instruction better, and they don't overpower the rod like a man might. It actually is a little funny to see the person who might not have been really keen on the trip enjoy themselves and do better than their more serious partner."

The Grand River is famed in fly-fishing circles across North America. Flowing southward into Lake Erie from headwaters near Dundalk, the Grand is Southern Ontario's largest watershed and a Canadian Heritage River -- a designation honouring a river that has influenced the history and culture of those who have lived along it.

The Grand is also one of Ontario's great conservation success stories. Described as an "open sewer" in the 1940s, the river is now considered one of the finest tail-water fisheries in eastern North America. In a word, it is breathtaking, and fishing along its shores, it is easy to forget the world beyond the river valley.

The river's charms are easily matched by the historic towns that lie along its banks. Fergus and Elora offer an engaging mix of century-old homes and fine Scottish stonework. There's a serenity that's almost palpable when walking through these places in springtime. Artisans, farmers markets, fine dining and a great bed-and-breakfast scene are welcoming after a day on the river.

We were guests of the Stonehurst Bed and Breakfast for our first night in the area. Located within walking distance of the heart of Fergus, and set on a well-groomed acre complete with pool and hot tub, the old limestone manor, built in the year of Confederation, has four well-appointed guest bedrooms. Our rooms had private en-suite washrooms with heated floors and therapeutic tubs -- which were useful in washing away river weariness at the end of the day. Hosts Peter and Johanna Weissenborn provided fine dining and made us feel at home immediately.

Our second day was spent at the century-old Stoneacre Bed and Breakfast in Elora. Again, Kay and Dave Bradley welcomed us, and provided a wonderful breakfast complete with asparagus, strawberries, bacon, eggs and robust coffee.

It was, however, the excellent fishing and fine scenery on the river that we remember. I'd tell you how many trout we caught, but, luckily, fly-fishing isn't about size or numbers. What the beer commercials fail to tell you is that a good day on the water is more like drinking a fine wine. Let's just say I'm still savouring the taste. If you go

Grand River Troutfitters :790 Tower St. S., Fergus, Ont., phone (519) 787-4359, fax (519) 787-9311, or visit the Web site at www.grandrivertroutfitters.com. Stonehurst Bed and Breakfast :265 St. David St. S., Fergus, Ont., phone (519) 843-8800 or e-mail jweissen@golden.net. Stoneacre Bed and Breakfast :363 Geddes St., Elora, Ont., phone (519) 846-5497. Grand River Conservation Authority :phone (519) 621-2761, fax (519) 621-4844 or visit the Web site at www.grandriver.on.ca. For tour packages, bed-and-breakfast or other accommodations, contact the Centre Wellington Chamber of Commerce ,phone (877) 242-6353; the Fergus Info Centre, phone (519) 843-5140, e-mail chamber@ferguselora.com; or the Elora Info Centre ,phone (519) 846-9841, e-mail info@eic.elora.on.ca.